The Silhouette Says It All

Autumn/Winter 1991, Christian Dior Boutique

• “100% silk with couture-level sleeve construction”

Gianfranco Ferré brought architectural precision and grand Italian opulence to Dior during his tenure from 1989 to 1996.

He revived Dior’s classic silhouettes with bold structure, rich fabrics, and couture-level embellishment.

Ferré honored the New Look while redefining it with drama and sculptural elegance.

His era marked a return to haute couture spectacle, winning Dior renewed prestige in a changing fashion world.

A tapestry of contradictions — masculine and feminine, structure and softness, restraint and theatricality. This waistcoat ensemble is not just Dior; it’s Ferré’s Dior.

At first glance, the brocade whispers of baroque splendor — jewel-toned, symmetrical, and unapologetically rich. But the silhouette tells the deeper story: sculpted shoulders, precision shaping at the waist, and those silk sleeves that defy gravity. Ferré, an architect before he was a designer, never abandoned structure. He simply made it romantic.

This piece hails from the Autumn/Winter 1991 collection, deep within Gianfranco Ferré’s reign at the house of Dior. While Marc Bohan left a legacy of refined grace, it was Ferré who reintroduced drama, rooted in historicism and delivered through couture-level craftsmanship — even in prêt-à-porter.

A quiet icon, yes. But only the trained eye will recognise the genius in its proportions, its lineage, and the way it balances power with poetry.

Measurements,

Labelled IT 42 – best fits a UK 10.

Shoulders: 42cm

Bust: 42cm

Waist: 38cm

Length: 56cm

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